Bathing and grooming a dog

Brushing a dog does the same job it does on a cat. It moves loose hair off the animal and it puts your hands on every part of the skin once a week, which is how lumps, ticks, hot spots and sore ears get found early rather than late.

What to wash with

A wash sold for dogs, and read the active ingredients. If there is a cat in the house, a flea shampoo or spot-on containing permethrin is the one thing worth being strict about, because the danger is not to the dog.

What shampoo is safe for a dog or a cat

None of the sources on that page put a number on how often to bathe a dog, so this one will not either. A short coated dog who has rolled in something is a different question from a double coated dog in the middle of dropping its undercoat.

Doing it

Brush the coat out before the dog gets wet. Water turns a loose tangle into a solid mat, and a matted coat that has been washed and dried is far harder to get through than it was dry.

Warm rather than hot, and work from the neck back. Keep the water and the suds out of the ears and the eyes. Rinse for longer than you think, because the shampoo left in the coat is what makes a dog itch for the next two days.

Drying

A human hairdryer runs hotter than a dog's skin can take and it is easy to burn one without the dog reacting until the damage is done. Towels first, then either a dryer made for dogs or a warm room and time. A thick coat left damp at the skin is how hot spots start.

Ears and nails

Look in the ears every time you brush. A smell, a discharge, redness, or a dog shaking its head or rubbing an ear along the sofa all mean an appointment rather than a bottle of cleaner.

Nails that touch the floor are already long. Once a nail reaches the ground it gets pushed back into the toe every time the paw lands, and the dog starts standing differently to keep off it. If you can hear the clicking on a hard floor, they are due.

Sources